FISH ON

The river calls; after several weeks of myriad projects and work, I felt the pull of my mind and body needing a reset. I’ve found solace in nature and water multiple times during the pandemic, donning the equipment to break the water at dawn, fishing for trout as a medicine like no other. The tug of the line, setting my heart right, bringing the net from the current, admiring the catch before letting her swim back home. I couldn’t bring myself to eat the trout I was catching, somehow it didn’t seem right for me to take anything during an atmosphere of global catastrophe.

I opted for catch and release even before covid, probably 90 percent of the time anyway…but filing down the barb of my hook during the last year and half only seemed fair, human. This trip seemed no different, the first several fish furrowing from my hands into the steady stream of the Ozark river; but then something changed, reverted in my attitude and insight. I was hungry. I was hungry for trout. The next baby lunker twisted side to side, pushing hard against my line, but with tip up and bent, I slowly brought her into the net, after nearly 10 minutes of fight. She knew, or at least I felt she knew, finally succumbing, letting me hold her in my hands as the pretty water coursed over her back and into her gills. I waited, and even pleaded, “Run, girl…go home” But she didn’t struggle, just slowly opened and closed her mouth gently. I took it as a sign, from whom or what, I have no idea….but it was a sign nevertheless, and I carefully placed her in my basket.

I fished on, performing the same ritual with each trout that found the end of my line…the ones that struggled were free to swim away, the ones that found comfort in my hands went into the basket. It’s a trick, I know….but the fish tasted good, and it was the happiest I had been in a long time.

Ozark Trout and Potatoes en Papillote

SERVES 4 | PREP, COOK TIME: 1 HOUR

INGREDIENTS

4 whole trout, dressed with head on

Salt and pepper

1 cup sliced VIDALIA yellow onion

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 cups fresh herbs (thyme, dill and rosemary), chopped

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 lemons, sliced

4 small backyard tomatoes, quartered

2 pound baby and fingerling potatoes, halved

1/4 cup your favorite river beer, mine is the Ozark APA

Parchment paper

TECHNIQUE

Preheat oven to 400 degrees, or prepare a grill with both direct and indirect heat. Cut 8 sheets of parchment paper large enough to completely cover the fish when folded, and then the other four pieces of parchment to house 1/4 pound of the potatoes each. Wash and dry the trout and potatoes.

Allow the potatoes to start before preparing the fish; combine the potatoes, garlic, salt, pepper, and three tablespoons olive oil. Divide into four then place on smaller parchment sheets, folding to create a pouch. Place in oven or over indirect heat of the grill about 30 minutes before cooking the trout.

Using a sharp knife, score the fish on 1 side just until you feel the rib bones. Season the trout generously, inside and out with salt and pepper. Spread 1/4 cup of the onions and tomatoes on each sheet of parchment. Place trout on top, cut side up.

Prep the inside of the trout with all the chopped herbs. Top each fish with olive oil, tomatoes, lemon slices. Carefully pour beer and about 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil over each trout. Fold the parchment over the trout so that it is firmly and completely sealed. Ultimately, making the pocket fold underneath the body of the fish.

Place the parchment wrapped trout on a large baking sheet or greased aluminum foil if grilling at camp; then cook in oven for about 20 minutes, or over indirect heat on your grill for 30 to 45 minutes.

Serve the trout on a plate or platter inside the parchment; cutting from the top, allowing the presentation to include the steam, aromatics from the parchment pouch.